In this guide
The Short Version: Hanoi’s largest indoor trading hub, Dong Xuan Market (Cho Dong Xuan), is open daily from 06:00 to 18:00, offering three floors of wholesale fabrics, dried delicacies, and inexpensive souvenirs at the northern end of the Old Quarter. On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evenings from 18:00 to 23:00, the street outside transforms into the 3-kilometre Weekend Walking Street Night Market. Be sure to explore Ngo Dong Xuan food alley for charcoal-grilled bun cha on bamboo skewers for 45,000 VND, carry small denomination cash in
VND, and watch your belongings in crowded aisles.
Anchoring the northern boundary of Hanoi’s historic merchant district, Dong Xuan Market (Cho Dong Xuan) is the beating commercial heart of the capital, officially administered under the Hanoi People’s Committee and promoted by the Vietnam National Authority of Tourism. Originally established by the French colonial administration in 1889 on reclaimed land along the Red River, it remains northern Vietnam’s largest wholesale distribution point.
By day, it is a hive of commerce where thousands of merchants trade textiles, household goods, and regional spices. Come Friday evening, the thoroughfares extending south to Hoan Kiem Lake are closed to motor vehicles, creating the sprawling Weekend Night Market (Cho Dem Pho Co).
Dong Xuan Market: floor-by-floor breakdown
The arched colonial frontage of Dong Xuan Market. Photo: Juliana Ng from Singapore, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0.
The covered complex features five distinctive arched stone gables fronting a spacious three-storey hall. While predominantly wholesale, individual travellers can purchase goods throughout:
| Level | Commercial focus | What visitors can buy |
|---|---|---|
| Ground Floor | Foodstuffs, spices, and hardware | Packaged teas, Robusta and Arabica coffee beans, dried squid, lotus seeds, and kitchen utensils |
| Second Floor | Fabrics and textiles | High-grade Vietnamese silks (lua), rolls of cotton, tailored shirts, and ready-to-wear dresses |
| Third Floor | Apparel and luggage | Children’s clothing, footwear, sports jerseys, backpacks, suitcases, and woven accessories |
| Wet Market (Rear) | Perishable foods | Live river fish, ducks, fresh herbs, tropical fruits, and edible flowers (mornings only) |
Shopping tips inside the daytime market
- Narrow aisles: Passageways between textile stalls are tight and stacked high with plastic-wrapped merchandise. Travel light and leave bulky daypacks at your hotel.
- Wholesale pricing: Vendors quote lower unit prices if you buy items in multiples of three or five (such as silk scarves, chopsticks, or coffee filters).
Multi-level wholesale shopping aisles inside Dong Xuan Market. Photo: Christophe95, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Ngo Dong Xuan: street food alley
Market stalls and pedestrian crowds along Hang Dao street during the weekend night market. Photo: Christophe95, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Running directly along the market’s northern flank is Ngo Dong Xuan, a narrow 200-metre alleyway revered by local food lovers for serving traditional dishes at honest street prices.
1. Bun cha que tre (Bamboo-skewered bun cha)
Unlike standard Old Quarter bun cha restaurants that grill pork using wire mesh racks, several vendors in Ngo Dong Xuan preserve the traditional method of clamping marinated minced pork and sliced pork belly between bamboo skewers (que tre). Grilling over natural wood charcoal gives the meat a distinct, sweet smoky aroma.
- Price: 40,000 VND to 50,000 VND per bowl, served with fresh rice vermicelli, dipping broth, and mountainous piles of fresh herbs.
2. Banh tom (Crispy freshwater shrimp cakes)
A beloved Hanoi street snack made from shredded sweet potato and whole freshwater lake shrimps dipped in light turmeric batter and deep-fried to golden perfection.
- Price: 35,000 VND for three cakes, served with sweet-sour nuoc cham dipping sauce and crisp pickled kohlrabi.
3. Banh duc nong (Warm steamed rice cake)
A comforting bowl of hot, velvety steamed rice porridge topped with savoury minced pork, wood-ear mushrooms, crispy golden shallots, fresh coriander, and a ladle of warm sweet fish sauce.
- Price: 25,000 VND per bowl.
4. Che (Traditional sweet dessert soup)
End your meal at the dessert stalls near the alley’s eastern exit. Vendors offer glass vitrines filled with ingredients: candied lotus seeds, black grass jelly, sweet red beans, water chestnut pearls, and freshly grated coconut drizzled with jasmine syrup.
- Price: 20,000 VND to 25,000 VND per glass.
The Weekend Walking Street Night Market
From 18:00 every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, vehicular traffic is sealed off from the main boulevard stretching north from Hang Dao (near Hoan Kiem Lake) through Hang Ngang, Hang Duong, and ending at the gates of Dong Xuan Market.
The resulting pedestrian strip spans nearly three kilometres, lined with hundreds of tented stalls illuminated by incandescent bulbs and hanging lanterns.
What to buy at the night market
- Handicrafts and souvenirs: Lacquerware coasters, bamboo bowls, carved wooden bookmarks, embroidered pouches, and pop-up 3D paper greeting cards.
- Textiles and fashion: Handspun cotton linen shirts, lightweight elephant trousers, silk pyjamas, and conical palm-leaf hats (non la).
- Ceramics and pottery: Hand-glazed tea sets and miniature vases transported from nearby craft settlements like Bat Trang ceramic village.
- Night snack skewers: Stalls along cross streets sell grilled pork skewers, quail eggs wrapped in lemongrass, cheese-stuffed sausages, and rolled fried ice cream.
Street musicians and cultural buskers
At major street intersections along the walking route, local artists perform free outdoor shows:
- Xam singing: Ancient folk ballad performances traditionally sung by blind minstrels, accompanied by the monochord (dan bau) and two-string fiddle (dan nhi).
- Ca Tru: Subtle chamber poetry singing recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage.
- Modern youth buskers performing acoustic pop covers near Dong Xuan gate.
Bargaining etiquette and practical guidelines
Haggling is an accepted social norm across both Dong Xuan and the night market, but following local etiquette ensures a pleasant exchange:
| Negotiation stage | Polite local practice | What to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Opening quote | Listen courteously without displaying shock | Do not grimace or scoff loudly at the vendor |
| First counter-offer | Offer around 50% of the opening quote | Avoid offering unrealistically low sums (such as 10%) |
| Settling the price | Settle around 60% to 70% of initial price with a smile | Do not argue angrily; walk away calmly if unsatisfied |
| Morning superstition (Mo Hang) | Avoid aggressive haggling with the very first customer | Do not touch goods repeatedly if you have no intent to buy |
Essential safety and practical precautions
- Pickpocket awareness: In dense crowds around Dong Xuan Market and night market intersections, keep smartphones, wallets, and cash secure inside a front crossbody bag or front zipped pocket.
- Cash only: Market vendors do not accept foreign currency or credit cards. Carry small denominations (10,000 VND, 20,000 VND, and 50,000 VND notes) to facilitate rapid transactions.
- Restrooms: Public toilet facilities inside Dong Xuan Market are located near the rear stairs (fee: 3,000 VND to 5,000 VND; carry your own tissue paper).
Market and street food tours in the Old Quarter
Because Dong Xuan and the night market cover immense territory with overwhelming dining choices, joining a guided tasting tour ensures you visit hygienic, generationally proven food stalls:
Hanoi: Small-Group Street Food Walking Tour
From VND 556,800 · 4.8 stars from 2439 reviews · 3 hours · Top-rated foodie walk
Book the Hanoi Small-Group Street Food Walking Tourad to explore the best-kept street food stalls around Dong Xuan Market and the northern Old Quarter. Led by a passionate local guide, this tour includes 7 to 8 substantial tastings, from skewered bun cha to egg coffee and fresh spring rolls.
Hanoi: Street Food Tour with Train Street Visit
From VND 506,200 · 4.9 stars from 127 reviews · 3 hours · Small group
Book the Hanoi Street Food Tour with Train Street Visitad to combine authentic market snacks around Dong Xuan with an authorised look at the historic railway corridor and Old Quarter back-alleys.
Hanoi: Small Group Street Food Walking Tour
From VND 556,800 · 4.9 stars from 144 reviews · 3 hours · Small group
Book the Hanoi Small Group Street Food Walking Tourad for an intimate evening culinary journey through the night market stalls, sampling banh goi (pillow dumplings), papaya salad with beef jerky, and traditional iced che.
Connecting with nearby Old Quarter sights
Combine your market exploration with surrounding cultural landmarks:
- Water Puppetry: Start your evening by catching an evening performance at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre before heading north into the market strip.
- Hoan Kiem Lake Promenade: Stroll through the illuminated pedestrian zone surrounding Ngoc Son Temple and Hoan Kiem Lake.
- Cafe culture: Retreat from the busy market corridors to relax with a classic egg coffee at Cafe Giang on Nguyen Huu Huan; consult our dedicated guide to Hanoi egg coffee and cafe culture.
- Follow our step-by-step route through the merchant guild streets with our curated Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem walking tour.
- For broader dining options, consult our master guide to where to eat in Hanoi.
Common questions
What are the opening hours of Dong Xuan Market in Hanoi?
Dong Xuan Market operates daily from 06:00 to 18:00 for the main daytime wholesale trading hall. The surrounding food alleys remain active until 22:00.
When does the Hanoi Weekend Walking Street Night Market take place?
The night market runs every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evening from 18:00 to 23:00, stretching from Hang Dao street near Hoan Kiem Lake all the way north to Dong Xuan Market.
Can individual retail visitors shop at Dong Xuan Market?
Yes. While Dong Xuan is primarily a wholesale market supplying traders across northern Vietnam, vendors gladly sell single garments, souvenirs, teas, and snacks to retail visitors, provided you negotiate politely.
How much should I bargain at Hanoi night markets?
A reasonable opening counter-offer is roughly 40% to 50% below the quoted opening price, settling around 60% to 70% of the initial figure. Always negotiate with a smile and avoid aggressive arguing.
What should I eat in the food alley at Dong Xuan Market?
Do not miss Ngo Dong Xuan (the alley bordering the north wall), famous for bun cha que tre (pork patties grilled on bamboo skewers), crispy shrimp cakes (banh tom), and sweet dessert soup (che).
