A sfogliatella riccia, a shell of crisp layered pastry dusted with sugar, beside a half cut open to show the ricotta filling

Food and drink

Naples street food and pastries: fried pizza, the wallet pizza, the cuoppo and frittatina, the sfogliatella and the babà, with hours and what to order

Naples street food, Italy: fried pizza at Zia Esterina Sorbillo and Masardona, the wallet pizza at Di Matteo, the cuoppo and frittatina, and sfogliatelle and babà at Pintauro, Scaturchio, Poppella and Attanasio, with hours and the counts of how many sources name each.

Photo: Saggittarius A · CC BY-SA 4.0
In this guide

💡 The Short Version: The Neapolitan street food is pizza fritta, fried pizza (Sorbillo is named for it by 29 publishers and Starita by 28), the pizza a portafoglio, the wallet pizza folded in four, at Di Matteo (16), the cuoppo, a paper cone of fried morsels, and the frittatina, a fried pasta croquette. The pastries are the sfogliatella (Attanasio 24, Scaturchio 17, Pintauro 15) and the babà, a rum-soaked cake. The Zia Esterina Sorbillo fried-pizza counters open daily, Di Matteo is closed on Sundays, and Poppella’s Santa Brigida shop is closed on Mondays. Or book a tour: the Street Food Walking Tour with Local Guidead is from €42 for 2.5 hours.

📊 The evidence behind this guide. Nothing here is ranked on one visit. The counts come from the 842 list pages read for where to eat in Naples, from 81 English-language and 53 Italian publishers. A place counts for a dish when a publisher names it within a few lines of the dish, once per publisher, and the English and Italian figures are shown apart. How the guides are made

⚠️ Check the day. Di Matteo is closed on Sundays. Poppella’s Via Santa Brigida shop and Piazza Cavour shop are closed on Mondays.

Pizza fritta

Pizza fritta is a disc of pizza dough, folded or stuffed, and fried in oil. The pizzerias that bake pizza sell it too, so the lists name the same famous addresses for it:

Two fried pizzas on a metal tray, each topped with tomato sauce, grated cheese, mozzarella and a basil leaf

Fried pizzas topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil. Photo: Ruthven, Wikimedia Commons, CC0.

PlaceSourcesEnglishItalian
Gino Sorbillo291712
Starita a Materdei281711
Concettina ai Tre Santi241311
Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo22157
Masardona20812
Isabella De Cham Pizza Fritta18414
Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo17512
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele15105
50 Kalò14122

Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo

Piazza Trieste e Trento 53, daily 11:00 to 22:00 · Via dei Tribunali 35, daily 12:00 to 23:30 · Via Nilo 26, Monday 11:30 to 15:30 and Tuesday to Sunday 11:30 to 23:30 · Cited by 17 sources (5 English, 12 Italian) · sorbillo.it

Three counters run by the Sorbillo family, named after Gino Sorbillo’s aunt Esterina, who taught him to make dough. The Via dei Tribunali counter is at number 35, on the same street as Sorbillo’s pizzeria at number 32, which is closed on Sundays; the counter is open daily. The lists tie it to fried pizza, the wallet pizza and the cuoppo.

Masardona

Piazza Vittoria, and Case Nuove · Cited by 27 sources (11 English, 16 Italian) · masardona.it

A fried-pizza house named after Anna Manfredi, known as “a Masardona”, who began frying in 1945. Its own page describes the pizza as always golden, never greasy and very soft. Gambero Rosso’s 2026 guide gives it Tre Rotelle, its mark for pizza by the slice and takeaway.

Isabella De Cham Pizza Fritta

Cited by 20 sources (5 English, 15 Italian)

Named by 15 Italian publishers and 5 English ones, and new at Tre Spicchi in Gambero Rosso’s 2026 guide.

Powered by GetYourGuide

The wallet pizza

The pizza a portafoglio is a small pizza folded in four, eaten from paper while you walk.

PlaceSourcesEnglishItalian
Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo1679
Gino Sorbillo1064
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele981
Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba927
Mercato di Pignasecca817
Pizzeria Da Attilio716

Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo

Via dei Tribunali 94 · Monday to Saturday 10:00 to 23:30, closed Sunday · Cited by 16 sources for the wallet pizza (7 English, 9 Italian) · anticapizzeriadimatteo.it

The ground floor is a takeaway counter and the upstairs rooms are a pizzeria. The operator says President Clinton, walking through the historic centre during the G7 summit in July 1994, stopped at the counter and ate a wallet pizza with a Coca-Cola. The frittatina is the other order: 16 publishers name Di Matteo for it. See the best pizza in Naples for the full entry.

The cuoppo and the frittatina

A cuoppo is a paper cone of fried morsels, and a frittatina is a fried pasta croquette. The market and the friggitorie, the fry shops, lead the counts:

PlaceCuoppoFrittatina
Mercato di Pignasecca118
Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo916
Friggitoria Vomero94
Passione di Sofì8not counted
Concettina ai Tre Santi29
50 Kalònot counted8

Da Attilio’s menu, at Via Pignasecca 17, prices the crocchè, a potato croquette with provola, at €2.50, the frittatina, a pasta croquette with béchamel, salami and peas, at €3, and the montanara, a fried pizza with tomato sauce, parmesan and basil, at €4. The Pignasecca market is named by 35 publishers across all the food lists.

The sfogliatella

The sfogliatella is a shell-shaped pastry filled with ricotta and semolina, in two forms: the riccia, crisp and layered, and the frolla, soft shortcrust.

A sfogliatella riccia, a shell of crisp layered pastry dusted with sugar, beside a half cut open to show the ricotta filling

A sfogliatella riccia, whole and cut open to show the ricotta filling. Photo: Saggittarius A, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

PlaceSourcesEnglishItalian
Attanasio241212
Scaturchio1798
Pasticceria Pintauro1578
Sfogliatella Mary1394
Gran Caffè Gambrinus1293
Antica Pasticceria Vincenzo Bellavia1028
Poppella954
Pasticceria Carraturo927

Pasticceria Pintauro

Via Toledo 275 · Cited by 15 sources for the sfogliatella (7 English, 8 Italian) · pasticceriapintauro1785.it

The shop says the sfogliatella was born here in 1785 and has sold it on Via Toledo since. Order a riccia from the oven.

Scaturchio

Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19, and branches at Piazza Amedeo 4/5, Via Luca Giordano 79, the Certosa, Castel Sant’Elmo and the Napoli Centrale food hall · Cited by 17 sources for the sfogliatella (9 English, 8 Italian) · scaturchio.it

The historic shop is on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, on the Spaccanapoli walk. The shop’s own page names the babà, the sfogliatelle, the pastiera and the ministeriale, a pastry it has patented. It runs a sfogliatella workshop in its historic rooms in which visitors make a frolla, and it has branches at the Certosa di San Martino and Castel Sant’Elmo: see Castel Sant’Elmo, the Certosa and the funiculars.

Poppella

Via Arena alla Sanità 28/29, daily 06:00 to 00:00 · Via Santa Brigida 69/70, daily 08:30 to 21:00 except Monday · Piazza Cavour 76, daily 06:00 to 21:00 except Monday · Cited by 19 sources for the sweets (12 English, 7 Italian) · pasticceriapoppella.com

The pastry shop has three shops of its own. The main one is in the Sanità district, where the catacombs are: see the Catacombs of Naples. The second, on Via Santa Brigida, is two steps from the Maschio Angioino, the Galleria Umberto I and the Teatro di San Carlo, according to the shop. The lists tie it to the babà and the sfogliatella.

Attanasio

Cited by 29 sources (16 English, 13 Italian)

The most named of the sfogliatella shops: 24 publishers, 12 English and 12 Italian, name it for the sfogliatella, and 12 name it for the babà.

Powered by GetYourGuide

The babà

The babà is a yeast cake soaked in rum syrup.

Three glazed babà in plastic trays on a silver card

Babà al rum, soaked in syrup. Photo: Marica Massaro, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

PlaceSourcesEnglishItalian
Attanasio1284
Scaturchio963
Poppella954
Pasticceria Capparelli817
Sfogliatella Mary752
Gran Caffè Gambrinus752

Since 1994 Scaturchio has shown a babà moulded in the shape of Vesuvius in its windows, according to its own page.

Coffee

Gran Caffè Gambrinus

Via Chiaia 1, on Piazza Trieste e Trento · Cited by 25 sources (18 English, 7 Italian) · grancaffegambrinus.com

The café opened in 1860, on the ground floor of the Foresteria building of 1816, now the Prefettura, facing Piazza del Plebiscito and the Royal Palace, and the Sergio family runs it. Its own page describes the espresso as made by the old Neapolitan recipe, dark, dense and boiling, and lists flavoured coffees and the barbajata. The lists name it for coffee (24 publishers), the sfogliatella (12) and the babà (7). See the Royal Palace.

A caffè sospeso, a suspended coffee, is a custom: you pay for a second coffee in advance and the bar serves it to a stranger who asks. No bar keeps a list, so ask at the counter.

Powered by GetYourGuide

A food tour

A street-food walk covers several of these in a morning. GetYourGuide’s lowest “from” prices are per person:

Naples food tours compares them with the classes.

Plan the rest

Where to eat in Naples lists the restaurants the sources name, the best pizza in Naples ranks the pizzerias, and Naples food tours compares the tours. The Spaccanapoli walk passes Di Matteo, Sorbillo and Scaturchio, and 3 days in Naples fits the stops to the days. Where to stay in Naples compares the areas, and what to book in Naples lists the closed days. For another city’s street food, see Florence street food.

Common questions

What is pizza fritta?

A disc of pizza dough, folded or stuffed, and fried in oil rather than baked. The Sorbillo family runs three Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo counters in Naples, on Piazza Trieste e Trento, Via dei Tribunali and Via Nilo. Sorbillo and Starita are named for it by the most publishers, 29 and 28.

What is a pizza a portafoglio?

The wallet pizza: a small pizza folded in four and eaten from paper in the street. Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo is named for it by 16 publishers, and its own page says President Clinton ate one there in July 1994. Di Matteo is closed on Sundays.

What is a cuoppo?

A paper cone of fried morsels, among them fried pasta, croquettes, fish and vegetables. The Pignasecca market is named for it by 11 publishers, and Di Matteo and the Friggitoria Vomero by 9 each. Da Attilio sells potato croquettes at €2.50 and a frittatina, the fried pasta croquette, at €3.

What is the difference between a sfogliatella riccia and a frolla?

The riccia is crisp and layered, and the frolla is soft shortcrust. Both are filled with ricotta and semolina. Pintauro says the sfogliatella was born in its shop on Via Toledo in 1785, and Scaturchio runs a workshop in which visitors make a frolla.

Where do you eat the best sfogliatella in Naples?

The lists name Attanasio most, with 24 publishers for the sfogliatella, then Scaturchio with 17, Pintauro with 15, Sfogliatella Mary with 13 and Gran Caffè Gambrinus with 12. Pintauro's is on Via Toledo 275 and Scaturchio's historic shop is at Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19.

What is a caffè sospeso?

A suspended coffee: you pay for a coffee in advance and the bar serves it to a stranger who asks. It is a Neapolitan custom, not a service with a list of bars, so ask at the bar.